1978-1988 A/G-Body Adjustable Front Upper Control Arms

The most affordable adjustable upper control arm on the market, in fact most competitors’ non adjustable arms are hundreds more

6061-t6 adjustment tubes

Teflon (PTFE) lined chromoly rod ends for maximum life and minimum friction

7075 forged aluminum cross shaft

Integral ball joint holder offers smaller and lighter packaging

+1” Howe ball joints improve camber gain through travel, with almost 0 friction

On-vehicle adjustable, unlike some competitor arms, no unbolting needed

Half the weight of factory arms

No shims needed, EVER

The most header clearance of any control arm on the market

Grade 8 fasteners

Comes with anti seize pre-applied to aid in adjustment and prevent galling

Comes pre-greased

Comes ready to install

Note: Shorter or longer tubes are available, the standard tubes work for 99% of applications
-If more positive caster is required split the knuckle, and run the rear adjustment tube all the way out and remove the outer RH jam nut. Ensure the tube is reaching the end of both the jam nut on the LH rod end and RH stud at the same point in the adjustment. This shortens the assembly by another ~3/8″
-If additional negative camber is desired, follow the above procedure on the front and rear tubes

Note: A tether, chain, or other kind of droop limiter is required to keep the adjusters off the frame when lifting the vehicle up, do this before you take the vehicle off jack stands during installation.
Recommended procedure would be to tether the lower to the frame, with no slack at ride height with the vehicle on the floor before disassembling the suspension. With jack stands under the frame leave the jack under the LCA, when the suspension is reassembled with the adjustable arms slowly lower the jack and check for interference with the upper control arm mount stamping with the rear tube especially. There should be no interference when the limiters are tight and simulating ride height. Using the jack to release the tension incrementally add slack to the limiter and re-test until there is 1/4-3/8″ gap between the frame and any moving part of the upper control arm.
Longer lower ball joints as well as lowering or cut springs will add to your available droop distance, however drop spindles will not.

Cutting / heating / bending the factory upper control arm mount stamping to gain clearance, if done in a way that doesn’t interfere with the main frame is an acceptable way to gain clearance as well. 

Note: As of 8/20 we have switched to Howe as our ball joint supplier

Note: As of 1/22 we have switched to hex adjustment tubes