1982-2002 2WD S-10 Adjustable Front Upper Control Arms
The most affordable adjustable 2WD upper control arm on the market, in fact most competitors’ non adjustable arms are hundreds more
6061-t6 adjustment tubes
Teflon (PTFE) lined chromoly rod ends for maximum life and minimum friction
7075 forged aluminum cross shaft
Integral ball joint holder offers smaller and lighter packaging
+1” Howe ball joints improve camber gain through travel, with almost 0 friction
On-vehicle adjustable, unlike some competitor arms, no unbolting needed
Half the weight of factory arms
No shims needed, EVER
The most header clearance of any control arm on the market
Grade 8 fasteners
Comes with anti seize pre-applied to aid in adjustment and prevent galling
Comes ready to install
Note: Shorter or longer tubes are available, the standard tubes work for 99% of applications
-If more positive caster is required split the knuckle, and run the rear adjustment tube all the way out and remove the outer RH jam nut. Ensure the tube is reaching the end of both the jam nut on the LH rod end and RH stud at the same point in the adjustment. This shortens the assembly by another ~3/8″
-If additional negative camber is desired, follow the above procedure on the front and rear tubes
Note: A tether, chain, or other kind of droop limiter is required to keep the adjusters off the frame when lifting the vehicle up, do this before you take the vehicle off jack stands during installation.
Recommended procedure would be to tether the lower to the frame, with no slack at ride height with the vehicle on the floor before disassembling the suspension. With jack stands under the frame leave the jack under the LCA, when the suspension is reassembled with the adjustable arms slowly lower the jack and check for interference with the upper control arm mount stamping with the rear tube especially. There should be no interference when the limiters are tight and simulating ride height. Using the jack to release the tension incrementally add slack to the limiter and re-test until there is 1/4-3/8″ gap between the frame and any moving part of the upper control arm.
Longer lower ball joints as well as lowering or cut springs will add to your available droop distance, however drop spindles will not.
Cutting / heating / bending the factory upper control arm mount stamping to gain clearance, if done in a way that doesn’t interfere with the main frame is an acceptable way to gain clearance as well.
Note: As of 8/20 we have switched to Howe as our ball joint supplier
Note: As of 1/22 we have switched to hex adjustment tubes
|Dimensions||12 × 12 × 6 in|
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